Woodpeckers Drill Press Table Kit 2 - Complete Set with Work Surface, Clamps, Fence & Stops | Precision Woodworking & Metalworking Accessories for DIY Projects & Professional Workshops

This product screams quality the second you take it out of the box and that deserves 5 stars. Some may say it's 'pricey' but do the math and to buy everything it would cost the same or more if you made it yourself. The installation for this is for ‘certain’ drill presses, other’s require using a piece of plywood. In both cases this results in the purchaser drilling holes and placing wood screws into the MDF material. Over time this will weaken the material where the screws will not hold especially if you ever take the drill press table off.Below are pictures I took of an install method I used on the Porter Cable drill press sold at Lowes. (hey the drill press only cost me $85 LOL) This is one of those “other” tables that the supplied materials will in no way work to install this. When installed this way on any table, there are no holes drilled or wood screws put in the top making it much better than the instructions by Woodpeckers. Only the existing holes are used. The big positive is that any clamping is super secure, and no wood screws will be pulled out of MDF, because no wood screws are used. It can also be attached with wingnuts so the table can be removed if needed, and reattached in seconds. All you need to do is purchase about $5 more in bolts, wingnuts, screws, and washers. If you have any skill at all this should take no more than 1 hour to to do. The completed table will take over 1000 of pounds of force and nothing will pull out, or pull off. Perfect if you ever use this with a mortising attachment and clamp to this.Purchase 8 countersink screws ¼” in diameter with the exact same tread as the ones that hold down the miter track on the table, just half an inch longer. Purchase 4 carriage bolts 2.5” with wingnuts (or nuts) and washers.1. Cut a piece of ¾ plywood just slightly smaller than the table top2. Drill holes in the plywood in the exact same position as the holes in the table top. The holes along the side after the main hole is drilled, use a chamfer bit for a countersink screw. So they will pull beneath the plywood when the screws are tightened.3. Drill 4 holes in your cast iron top. Yes this is the tricky part but it’s much easier than you think it would be. Make sure they are far enough away from the cast iron table center hole. Make a larger hole than the bolt you use so there can be some adjustment later.4. Place the cast iron table upside down on the bottom of the plywood with the holes drilled in it to match the drill press table. A good way to make sure everything is centered when placing upside down is to place a Forsner bit the same diameter as the middle hole in the cast iron top in the same hole as the center of the plywood.5. Mark the 4 holes you placed in the iron table on the plywood, and drill the holes.6. On the top side of the plywood, use a Forsner bit the same diameter of the carriage bolts drill down about ¼” so the bolt head will be below the surface when tightened. Put the 4 carriage bolts in the plywood.7. Place the drill press table on the plywood, place in the screws through the top to the channels for the fence tracks, everything should line up and tighten.8. Place the drill press table on the cast iron table through the holes you just made, and align everything dead center, then tighten the nuts or wingnuts.Mounted this to a Jet table with t-slots. If you take your time laying out, 4 holes 25% of the table thickness deep with a forstner bit then through drilled with a 1/4” brad point will provide a flat bottom for the nuts and washers fastened from the top and keep them below the work surface. Nuts on top will keep you from over tightening and damaging the board. Well thought out design which allows repeatable and accurate layout. Quality is spot on. It takes a minute to get used to using this style of clamp, but once you get the hang of it, they’re ok. The stops are great. I will likely buy the taller fence but that doesn’t equate to the included one having any problems. Application specific is all. I own quite a few Woodpecker products, they never disappoint and this one is no exception. Well worth the investment.It makes everything more accurateI have only installed this. It was a Christmas gift. The parts are well made. Very solid and quality construction. The packaging was very adequate. Everything was protected.If your drill does not have through holes in the table, you wil either have to drill them or you have to make a top to go between your drill press table and the woodpecker table. That is a little frustrating and the only reason I gave it a 4. I chose to simply drill 4 holes in my table. No big deal.The table assembled and installed in 30 minutes or so. Very easy once you get past the decision to drill holes in you table.This unit came with two stops and two clamps. Very nice and the same anodized aluminum as the rails. The rails have very clearly marked measurements. The table also has a sacrificial center that is super easy to replace with MDF. Lastly, the table has what seems to be a very solid laminate that should be very easy to slide pieces on and should be pretty robust.This table/fence replaced my original one, a homebrew. I have a small business that requires repetitive drilling and frequent setting changes. Once the thing is installed and calibrated, you can just use and trust the markings on the fence, no need to double-check. I cut a bunch of inserts, then drilled a guide hole of each different size bit I own in the insert. I install the bit, then move my table until the bit slides easily in the hole. Then I know the table is correctly positioned, and the scales will read accurately. I like having all the different inserts ready to go so that if I have to drill through the piece, there will never be any breakouts splinters. I bought the extra high fence as an add on, which works well. The only downside is that for certain pieces of wood, the high fence is too high, and I don't trust the low fence (which is just the channel aluminum) to keep the piece from rocking. (This is the situation only for fairly small strips of wood. So I just made my own add-on that attaches easily using the track for those intermediate-sized pieces of wood. My only regret is not getting one of these fences sooner. Oh yes, it is made in the USA! 4/4/13This thing is really nice. Yes you could build your own, but by the time you buy the melamine and tracks, your are already probably more than half way at the price.The melamine is thick and textured (if it is melamine, I'm not sure). Nothing like the stuff you would buy at the store. Tracksare right and dead on, table is flat, and makes such a huge improvement to my table.I have a Porter Cable drill press. It has diagonal t-slots. If you have t slots you need a sub base of you don't want screw holes in the top. I used scrap MDF as a sub base and it works great, but getting it dead on with the diagonal t slots made it a pain. My advice is to over drill the holes (I used 29/64), use a washer, and counter bore with a bigger forstner. You will need some play when you put the table on. If you tilt the oval washers, they just fit in the slot the long way.After a longer than expected setup however, this thing works great.This Drill Press Table was well-built at a reasonable cost. Easy to install, provides a very large and stable drill top work area. I also liked the various fences and "hold downs". My "original" Floor Drill Bench Top (Metal) was much too small, for many of my projects. This Product solved that problem. Solid and functional, at a reasonable cost.Works just great for me in the work I do